Pootharekulu, a beloved Indian sweet hailing from the state of Andhra Pradesh, holds a special place in the hearts of those who have had the pleasure of savouring its unique flavours. Pootharekulu has become a cherished delicacy synonymous with festive celebrations, religious occasions, and weddings in the Telugu states. From its humble beginnings to earning a coveted GI tag, this Konaseema delicacy has been empowering women for over three centuries.
The Accidental Invention
The origins of ‘Atreyapuram Pootharekulu’ lie in a fortuitous incident. While draining water from cooked rice, it accidentally splashed onto a hot pot, forming a thin, transparent sheet. When combined with sugar, this rice sheet created a melt-in-mouth delight, thus giving birth to the iconic ‘paper sweet.’
From Local Tradition to GI Tag
The sweetness of ‘Atreyapuram Pootharekulu’ gradually spread its fame across generations. With experiments and innovations, the delicacy evolved, offering various variants stuffed with dry fruits, nuts, and organic jaggery. The sweet’s uniqueness and heritage were recognized with a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, thanks to the dedicated efforts of Damodaram Sanjivayya National Law University (DSNLU) in Visakhapatnam.
Preserving the Tradition
The GI certification process involved extensive research and field trips to Atreyapuram, even during the challenging times of the Covid-19 pandemic. Most of the women involved in the process are skilled rice sheet producers, keeping alive a tradition passed down through generations. The DSNLU team’s aim was to empower these women and support the unorganized sector in which they operate.
The Art of Making Pootharekulu
The intricate process of making the sweet involves producing rice sheets at 120 degrees Celsius in open and hot conditions. This unique technique, specific to the region, relies on minute details, including rice batter density, cotton cloth thickness, and mud pot temperature, ensuring consistency in taste and authenticity.
Handcrafted with Love
The secret ingredient in ‘Atreyapuram Pootharekulu’ lies in the love and soul put into its making by skilled women. With each piece handcrafted, the sweet embodies a touch of tradition and dedication, just as the old kings liked it. The GI tag was possible through the collective interest of the public, leading to the formation of Sir Arthur Cotton Atreyapuram Putharekula Manufacturers’ Welfare Association.
Preserving Centuries-Old Heritage
For generations, women in Atreyapuram have continued the legacy of sweet-making, passing down the art from ancestors. The process of obtaining the GI tag involved submitting multiple pieces of evidence to establish authenticity and uniqueness. With this recognition, the socioeconomic dynamics of sweet-making have evolved, opening doors for women from various communities to participate and prosper.
Exporting the Sweet Legacy
With an increase in demand, ‘Atreyapuram Pootharekulu’ has gained popularity globally. A woman can now prepare around 400 to 600 sweets a day from the comfort of her home, contributing to the product’s widespread availability. The sweet’s exportation has further expanded its reach and spread its sweetness across the world.
